Hoi An Old Town

Having lived for three months in a town most tourists zip through in three days, I feel I can offer something to the zipping visitor in the way of recommendations for seeing, eating and doing.  When you’re on a short holiday it’s always disappointing when you go to the mostly highly recommended restaurant and unknowingly choose their worst dish, or arrive at Lonely Planet’s suggested guesthouse, only to find they have since tripled their room prices and dramatically lowered the standard of cleanliness.

So, here are Fiona and my picks for this little heritage town.  It’s a personal list, the things we did, saw, ate and liked.  Even after three months, I’m sure we missed stuff too, so feel free to add your comments below.

Beautiful silk lanterns on An Hoi at night.

I have included prices in Vietnamese Dong (VND) and US Dollars (USD) where I could remember them.  Typically, the exchange rate is around 18,000 dong = 1 USD.

Where to Eat in Hoi An.

Shopping in Hoi An.

Sleeping & Getting Around in Hoi An.

Dos and Don’ts in Hoi An.

Photos by Fiona Jones.

What to DEFINITELY DO.

Here are a few things not to miss on your trip to Hoi An.

1. Take a lazy boat ride on the river.  Catch any tourist boat from Bach Dang St, there is a size and price to suit every budget and persuasion, shop around.
2. Red Bridge Cooking School.  One of the most professional activities I have taken part in in Vietnam.  And we made fabulous tasting local food ourselves – lots of fun and well worth the seemingly expensive $25 price tag.  Forgo breakfast, there’s LOTS of food – and they cater to vegetarians!
3. Pick up a copy of the little Live Hoi An booklet, a lovely monthly tiny magazine about Hoi An.  Lots more ideas of current things to do, bike rides out of town and the like.
4. Look out for the Full Moon Festival, once every month.  Take a boat (70,000VND) down the river at night and float a lantern on the water and watch thousands of candles making their way out to sea.
5. Also, keep an eye open for the once-a-year Dragon Festival.  When it’s on, you will know about it – drums beat every day for a week while the children practice for the big night.  Trucks of performers come in from surrounding towns to display their dragons and dancing on 10-foot high poles.

What to definitely NOT do.

Do not visit any orphanages in Vietnam (or any other county for that matter) with a tour group or as a tourist to have your photo taken with a disabled orphan.  Really, just think about the dignity of the person you are encroaching on before you join your tour group in going.

If you have a skill (English teaching, social worker, fund raiser, physical therapist etc) then scout out a local charity organization.  In Hoi An, if you would like to donate or volunteer your services to help orphaned or disabled children, contact the Kianh Foundation.

Do not purchase items from child street sellers.  The children sell whistles, bracelets, necklaces and other small ticket items.  They will usually tell you if you buy something from them they can afford to go to school.

Just so you know, there is a free school run by Lifestart Foundation that all of these children could attend, starting today, but their parents choose for them to work on the streets selling bric-a-brac to gullible tourists.  The children earn a huge living, even just selling two or three items a night, often meaning their whole family can live off the child who sells the most.

Want to really help these kids?  Donate to Lifestart Foundation education programs.  Slowly but surely most of these kids are gaining scholarships to school or places in the free school which caters to children who can no longer enter the government school system.

So then, can you buy from adult street sellers selling the same items or newspapers?  Sure, but just don’t get sucked in to the story.  The main income for these sellers is not the immediate sale of a newspaper or necklace to you, but the sale of a story typically about a health condition, their poverty or another family members problem which will undoubtedly take a lot of (your) money to fix.   I have seen so many tourists lured into these stories, some even opening bank accounts and providing monthly deposits of money.

It is hard not to want to help everyone, our ego often takes over when we see people less fortunate than ourselves.  We think it’s so easy for us to dip into our pocket and hand over a little of our cash which we think will make a huge impact on someone else’s life, so why not?  It’s only $5, $10, $50 – so what?  But there are larger social implications when you take part in this ad-hoc, ego-inflating form of generosity that need to be considered.

Hoi An has to be the most over supported town in Vietnam.  There are so many NGOs and charities here to help the disadvantaged, I can’t even count them all!  Every person in this town with a story, with a health issue is very well aware of the charities that exist here and that they can easily access free medical care, education for their children, training opportunities and support for disabled relatives.

If you feel so desired, the best way to help people in need in this town is to connect them with the relevant charity or NGO.  They will then be taken through the relevant process of assessment and will be given appropriate assistance for their needs.

Please think before you open your wallet (or bank account!) about the wider ramifications of your actions.

Hoi Pho Hotel

Chirstmas at Hoi Pho Hotel!Hoi Pho Hotel

627 (04 Old) Hai Ba Trung St

For two and a half months we lived at Hoi Pho. The staff are attentive and friendly. Our room was clean, spacious, light filled and had a balcony – perfect for a long stay. Small rooms start at $10. Our room was $15 and could sleep 3 people, however we negotiated a $10 per night rate as we were long term guests. Hai Ba Trung is a busy street and it was on occasion very noisy in our room late at night. Comparatively, we spent 2 weeks at Thien Nga around the corner for $25 per night in a much smaller room, but it was quite, had a pool and over looked rice paddies instead of the street. I would happily take a room at Hoi Pho again over Thien Nga in the future, simply because of the cost saving.

Me on said bike on the way home from La Plage - covered from the sun in the typical Hoi An way!

Bike Hire

Hire bikes from the vendor across the road from Hoi Pho hotel, on the corner of Thanh Binh 2 hotel. If you are hiring for several days, you should be able to negotiate 10,000VND per day rate. Pay in advance if you don’t want him chasing you down the street every day! He will also pump up your tires every few days.

COMMENTS

Recently stayed in a great value hotel in Hoi An? Please feel free to add your comments below.

I’ll only mention a few places to shop in Hoi An.  You will notice (should you stray from the tour guided path) that most shops stock exactly the same thing.  This is due to the governments control of what shop owners can sell and where.  For example, if you have a shop in the market, you have a choice of only 12 types of shop you can open, and your stock is prescribed to you.

Buyer be ware – Vietnam is a bartering country.  I saw an American tourist pay $25 for a t-shirt I bought for $2.  Seriously.  If you don’t care, fine, but know that you can typically offer half of the original asking price and still know you’re not getting a good deal!

If you are visiting on a tour or with a guide, be aware that your tour guide will be getting a commission from every shop they take you to where you make a purchase.  Be independent and go to shops other than the ones you are directed to purchase from – you’ll likely find exactly the same item three doors down the road, for a much cheaper price as that shop will not be hiking up their prices for tour groups.

But really, how many ‘I went to Vietnam’ t-shirts do you need?  Here’s a few suggestions where you will find wonderful and unique souvenirs from your trip to Hoi An, while also supporting some great causes.

The Lifestart Foundation Workshop.

Lifestart Foundation Workshop

Shop 5, Viettown, 127 Phan Chu Trinh St

The Lifestart Foundation Workshop is a co-operative of disabled and disadvantaged people from Hoi An and surrounding areas.  Everything in the shop is made by the people in the co-op and 100% of your money will go directly to the makers.  The running costs of the shop are covered by independent fundraising by Lifestart Foundation.  This is a truly unique operation in Vietnam and well worth supporting.

Fiona with Nghi from Reaching Out in the childrens section.

Reaching Out

103 Nguyen Thai Hoc (next to Tan Ky House)

Reaching Out is another charity-based organization selling really lovely hand made products.  The shop does support disabled and disadvantaged crafts people, however they are on a set wage which is not effected directly by your purchase.  It is not clear exactly where the profit from this organization goes, but I feel that there is heart in this organization and a good will for the people it supports.

Fiona with the team at Lotus.

Lotus Jewellery

100 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

If you’re into sterling silver, this is the place to shop – frankly all the other jewellers in town are simply inferior in quality and service.  Phil and Nguyen run the show and are soon to open a second shop in town.  They stock wonderful hand crafted sterling silver pendants with designs such as the iconic conical hat and lotus flowers.  Just stunning.  Give them an Aussie G’Day from us.

Shop 45 – for all your clothes and shoes!

Hoang Deu – down near the bridge.

Huyen and her mother have to be the most reasonable shop keepers in Hoi An!  Their prices for shoes, clothes and bags are the most competitive in town.  Bring your favorite pants, dress or anything for them to copy, or bring in a picture of what you want made.  Forgot to?  Never mind, Huyen has piles and piles of fashion books you can flick through. Point to your favorite garments and come back and try it on in under 24 hours!  Having clothes tailor made for you is a fun experience – let your imagination run wild!  I had 50s-style summer dresses made for $18 each, Converse-style shoes made for $10 a pair and dress shoes made for $12 and $18 – and everything was made to measure!

COMMENTS

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There is lots to choose from in the food capital of Vietnam – Hoi An.  Based on my own experience, Hoi An supplies a far superior cuisine than any other city in Vietnam – a bold statement I can back up!  Eating vegan and vegetarian is easy in Vietnam and given my personal preference as a vegetarian, I have listed specific dishes which are especially for veggies!  Here are my personal pics.

Western/Tourist focused

Fiona with Sam from La Plage, the best chips in Hoi An and the best view is for free!

La Plage beach club.

An Bang Beach – An Bang beach is the local beach, away from all of the resort-going tourists at Cua Dai Beach.  Beautiful, quiet, pristine.  We had the entire beach to ourselves more than once and the water is amazingly warm.  Otherwise, on the weekends it’s a great spot to connect to and network with other long-term residents.

Directions: take your bike 2.5 kms along Hai Ba Trung St away from town, stay on that road till you hit the beach, it’s a straight line.  Take the left hand side car park, it’s free if you’re a guest at La Plage.  Walk to the right along the beach and you will pass banana leaf restaurants.  La Plage it the last on the right.  Say hi to Sam and Dennis for us.

At La Plage you will find the perfect beach side café setting, heaps of lounge chairs, great music, awesome views and the best French Fries (35,000VND) in Vietnam for sure.  Try the tofu curry with raisins, cashew nuts, coconut milk and rice (90,000VND) and ask Sam about her chocolate stash from San Fran.  You can expect frozen snickers and Nutella baguettes. Mmmm, Nutella…. A wonderful hangout any day of the week.

Fiona with Alberto - the real Italian deal!

Good Morning Vietnam – Italian Cuisine by a real Italian chef!

102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

Wonderful fresh, hand made pasta in the middle of Vietnam, who would have thought!?  It’s a great break from traditional food if you’ve been travelling for awhile.  Try the pumpkin and fetta ravioli (135,000VND) or the minestrone (60,000VND).  The wine selection is one of the best in Hoi An.  Say hello to Alberto from us.

Fiona, latte, choc croissant, River Loung groovy couch-beds!

River Lounge

35 Nguyen Phuc Chu – across the river on An Hoi.

Great ambiance in their upstairs lounge.  The best café latte (38,000VND) in Hoi An, as voted by Fiona who has tried them all!  Try the chocolate croissants and lemongrass crème brulee.  Have desert overlooking the lights of the old town.

With Sandra, enjoying dinner at Streets.

Streets International

17 LeLoi Street

Streets International is a non-profit organization founded by Sandra and Neal.  The restaurant is set up as a 5 star training facility for disadvantaged young people from Hoi An and surrounding areas to come and learn hospitality skills including food preparation, serving and front of house.  The food is wonderful and the atmosphere in the café is so happy it’s contagious!  While the menu is largely meat orientated, the kitchen staff are always happy to do vegetarian twists on menu items.  The bread and butter pudding (45,000VND)  is a must try for those who miss their Nan’s home cooked deserts.  Eat heartily and know you are supporting some wonderful young people to pursue their dreams of international accreditation in a hospitality career.

Morning Glory

106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street

This is a lovely restaurant frequented by the tour bus crowd, so we avoided it for two months, except to go and indulge in their crème caramel (18,000VND), which is one of the best I’ve ever had.  A fellow volunteer introduced us to the fresh rice paper rolls (45,000VND) which are the best I’ve tasted in Vietnam – the rice paper is made on the spot, not the re-hydrated kind served at most restaurants.

Cargo Club

107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc

Head to this hang out if you’re hanging for some real, unsweetened fresh baked bread.  Their veggie burger is righteous, eggs benedict are perfect for upset tummies.  Lipton tea with sweet milk was also a favourite of ours.  All breakfasts are served with a generous basket of fresh baked bread rolls, fruit salad, tea or coffee and juice – definitely value for money!

Local Eateries  (AKA – cheap eats!)

Café 43

Trần Cao Vân St

This is a little local café, a favourite haunt of many of the non-Vietnamese residents in Hoi An.  Cheap, great food.  Highly recommend the vegetarian hot pot (60,000VND), it’s not on the menu, so ask the owners.  It is a generous serve for two people.  Also ask for some instant noodles.  This hot pot comes with tofu, vegies and salad which you roll up yourself in rice paper rolls.

With my fav vegan Pho soup - YUM!

Thien Quoc - Vegetarian Restaurant

130 Tran Cao Van St

This has to be the cheapest vegan eatery in the world!  The food is 100% vegan and most meals are 10,000 VND (around 30 cents).  You can get rice with fresh cooked veggies or a bowl of pho (noodle soup), cao lau and other local dishes.  Most come with faux meats, so don’t be scared to eat them, it’s typically textured vegetable protein or a variation on tofu.  They also serve fresh soy milk which is wonderfully nutty in flavour.

Eating my famous Tofu Rice - just ask Lien!

Mr Tung – hokker style, out door restaurant by the river

Cnr of Le Loi and Bach Dang St

This Sinagpore-style hokker centre is home to about a dozen tiny restaurants.  Each bench belongs to a different owner.  Although the menus are identical, the food quality is not – it depends entirely on who is cooking it.  We recommend Mr Hung, having tried many different benches.  Lien is the resident chef and she is both delightful and a superb chef.  We recommend the chicken rice (25,000VND), and you can ask Lien to make it with tofu instead.  Please say a big hi to her from us, she will laugh heartily if other people also order ‘chicken rice, no chicken’!

Street vendors

The following vendors wander the streets of Hoi An selling their food, which should not be viewed as inedible or dubious in any way – it’s all fabulous food which we eat nearly every day and have not had any tummy problems with.

Fresh, warm popcorn - ain't nothin like it! And you can take home an inflatable dolphin too - I did!

Mr. Popcorn Man

You will hear Mr Popcorn Man before you see him.  Listen out for a  Happy Birthday instrumental soundtrack.  Then you will see him with his mobile popcorn making cart, strung with inflatable toys.  The pop corn is warm, made on the spot, and drizzled with his secret caramel sauce.  Bags range from 2000-5000 VND, depending on how much of a tourist you look like!

Mr. Banh Bao

Mr. Banh Bao’s cart features the best of disco music, and they are the real tracks, not remakes!  So you can eat your Banh Bao and have a groove at the same time.  Banh Bao is a steamed sweet bread dumpling traditionally filled with pork and vegies or other meat concoctions.  Vegetarian Banh Bao are denoted with an orange dot on top.  If you are around town for a few days, let the vendor know and place an order for the next day.  Be sure to go back and buy your order though, as they will make it up especially for you.  Pay around 3000VND per banh.

Look at that smile! It comes for free with your tofu desert!

Mrs Tofu Desert

This little lady is a little more difficult to locate as she calls out her product in Vietnamese as she walks around the streets of Hoi An.  She carries her portable restaurant on her shoulders and sets up shop wherever she finds a customer.  It is a silken tofu desert, slightly sweet with a thin caramel sauce and grated ginger on top.  You eat it on the spot and return the bowl to her.  She charges only 2000VND, no matter who you are.

Mrs. Crème Café

This is a wonderful desert cart selling jelly-type triangles and a Vietnamese spin on the crème caramel.  Instead, you get a custard topped with a thin coffee sauce.  The jellies are multi-flavoured and multi-colour.  Deserts range from 2000-5000VND.

COMMENTS

Have you been to Hoi An recently and have something to add?  Please feel free to keep this post updated with the most recent information.  All comments welcomed below!